Edition #9

Margins, momentum and major comebacks

When Pressure Turns Into Power. National titles defended, bans lifted, highballs battled, and bodies rebuilt. This week shows what happens when athletes are pushed to their limits — and decide to push back. From French Championships drama to global policy shifts, the season is accelerating fast.

Titles, Turning Points & Big Decisions

French Championships delivered emotional gold. A national champion fought through exhaustion and doubt to reclaim her crown, while the men's field proved just how thin the margins have become. Beyond the podium, a major decision reshaped the international landscape: the IFSC lifted the ban on Russian and Belarusian climbers — a move that will directly impact the upcoming World Cup season.

Highballs, Comebacks & Hard Rock

From Tahoe highballs to Squamish granite and El Salto endurance tests, this week's ascents combine power and persistence. V15 statements, 400-meter free pushes, and long-term projects inching closer to breakthrough. The common thread: progress — whether it's sticking a crux move again or rebuilding after injury.

William Bosi making progress on the Dumby project
@will_bosi

Dumby Project — Progress Update

Good progress on the Dumby project. Managed to stick the 1st move again and the 2nd move is starting to feel more possible, even on the link go. Just need the rain to stop.

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Álvaro Basich on El Chamán Loco 5.14b at El Salto
@climbingmagazine

El Chamán Loco 5.14b — 400m First Free Ascent

Álvaro Basich, a Guadalajara native, just nabbed the highly sought-after first free ascent of 'El Chamán Loco' (5.14b; 400m). The 14-pitch route had seen attempts from pro climbers worldwide but had not yet been freed in a continuous push.

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Andrew Leich on The Voice of Rushing Waters roof traverse at Coopers Rock
@climbingmagazine

Rattlesnake Bite Recovery to Ropeless Roof Traverse

After a rattlesnake bite reduced him from projecting 5.14c to struggling on V0, Andrew Leich had to rebuild from the ground up. His return: 'The Voice of Rushing Waters' (5.13a), a 35-foot roof traverse at Coopers Rock with zero natural protection.

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Mejdi Schalck on Defying Gravity V15 in the USA
@adidasfiveten

Mejdi Schalck — Defying Gravity V15 and Meadowlark Lemon V13

When in the USA… you go big. Mejdi Schalck delivering on Defying Gravity (8C/V15) and Meadowlark Lemon (8B/V13).

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Tim on Borrowed Time V14 highball FA in Tahoe
@mellowclimbing

Borrowed Time — V14 Highball FA in Tahoe

Black Diamond presents: Borrowed Time — a V14 highball first ascent. Tim battles one of Tahoe's proudest and tallest projects.

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Marco Müller on The Story of Three Worlds 8C+ in Cresciano
Kletterszene

Marco Müller Scores 4th Ascent of The Story of Three Worlds (8C+)

Marco Müller conquers The Story of Three Worlds (8C+) in Cresciano, Ticino — the 4th ascent of this legendary boulder.

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Eva-Maria Hammelmüller celebrating her fifth 9a ascent
Lacrux

Eva-Maria Hammelmüller's Fifth 9a — 'Sometimes the Best Days Are Not the Ones You Expect'

Austrian lead specialist Eva-Maria Hammelmüller has ticked her fifth 9a in Col de Castillon. Her ascent of WRC came as a complete surprise — showing that expectations don't always play the biggest role.

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National Crowns & Season Switch-On

France and Great Britain crowned their champions, and the international season is about to ignite. Athletes are shifting from rock mode back into competition focus, recalibrating timing, tactics, and mindset. With new formats and stacked fields ahead, consistency — not flashiness — will define early momentum.

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Innovation, Experiments & Safety First

Performance meets creativity this week. Avalanche tech goes digital, beloved shoes get reworked, and brands experiment at the intersection of climbing culture and design. Behind the marketing is a clear pattern: smarter tools, safer systems, and constant refinement — because marginal gains matter.

Beyond the Send

From a ropeless skyscraper ascent watched by millions to alpine panoramas in Patagonia, climbing continues to stretch beyond grades. Recovery stories, family life, film projects, and winter venue stats all remind us: this sport is bigger than podiums. It's culture, risk, craft — and constant reinvention.

Alex Honnold after Taipei 101 solo, now embracing fatherhood
@alexhonnold

Alex Honnold — Taipei 101, Fatherhood, and What's Next

6 million people watched Netflix's live broadcast of Alex Honnold's ropeless ascent of Taiwan's Taipei 101. Now home in Las Vegas with his wife Sanni, Honnold says he's pumped to be tackling another adventure: fatherhood.

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Janja Garnbret lifestyle shots between competition season
@janja_garnbret

Janja Garnbret — Current Camera Roll Energy

Current camera roll energy. Janja Garnbret shares a glimpse into her life between seasons.

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Natalia Grossman climbing post-surgery recovery update
@natalia_grossman

Natalia Grossman — First Time Not Thinking About Her Knee

For one of the first times since surgery, I didn't think about my knee once while climbing! But wow, my whole body has never felt so sore. A rest week has never felt so good.

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Chris Deuto climbing Festerville on Aguja Standardt in Patagonia
@blackdiamond

Festerville — Climbing Aguja Standardt in Patagonia

The definition of panorama. BD Ambassador Chris Deuto's last climb in El Chaltén this season: rime-ice to the summit of Aguja Standardt, climbing Festerville along the spire's north ridge. The Torre mountains have a sort of unimaginable beauty.

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Jakob Schubert climbing in Squamish, Canada
@jakob.schubert

Jakob Schubert — Two Days on Squamish Granite

Finally got to visit Canada and climb on famous Squamish granite. Time was limited and conditions marginal, but managed to tick Room Service Low (V14), Frontside (V12 Flash), Backside Blowout (V13), Encore Un Fois (V11 Flash), and The Method (V12 Flash).

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Tommy Caldwell teasing The Assistant film with Edelrid
@tommycaldwell

Tommy Caldwell — Something Big Is Coming

Something big is coming. 8 days to go. Tommy Caldwell teases a new film project with Edelrid — #TheAssistant.

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Scottish winter climbing venues including Ben Nevis and Cairn Gorm
@ukclimbing

Top 5 Most Popular Scottish Winter Venues

According to UKClimbing Logbooks, the top 5 most popular venues during the Scottish Winter: Ben Nevis, Cairn Gorm (Stob Coire an t-Sneachda), Bidean nam Bian, Cairn Lochan, and Aonach Mor.

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Climbing Works International Festival Sheffield 2026
Kletterszene

CWIF 2026 — One Last Time at Climbing Works International Festival

CWIF 2026 in Sheffield — the last edition of the legendary Climbing Works International Festival with world-class bouldering, parties, costume competitions and livestreaming.

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Ice climbing at the Eis Total festival
OutdoorMagazinAlle

Ice Climbing — Cool, But a Little Crazy?

When snow and ice cover the mountains, many climbers flee south. Others pack ice axes and crampons and head into the ice. A small but passionate community — tried at the Eis Total Ice Climbing Festival.

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