Progress, Pressure and Hard Truths
Technical issues delayed this edition, but the climbing world did not slow down. This week brings hard sends, difficult grades, safety notes, World Cup pressure, and one serious breakthrough on Silence.
Silence Moves, Yosemite Speed and Grade Debate
Will Bosi finds new beta on Silence, Chris Deuto becomes the youngest climber to complete the Yosemite Triple Crown, and Yannick Flohé questions a proposed 9A grade. The strongest theme this week: progress is rarely clean, but it is always visible.
Will Bosi's Breakthrough on Silence (9c/5.15d) — New Beta Skips the Hardest Part
Bosi found new beta in the crux that lets him skip what was the hardest part for him. He's now only 4 moves from linking the main crux of the world's first proposed 9c.
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Chris Deuto Becomes Youngest to Complete the Yosemite Triple Crown
On May 9, 22-year-old Chris Deuto and partner Erik Andersen linked Mount Watkins, Half Dome and El Cap in 22 hours 16 minutes — a human-powered, unsupported ascent that adds to the legacy first set by Dean Potter and Timmy O'Neill in 2001.
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Yannick Flohé Suggests Downgrade for No One Mourns the Wicked
After an ascent of Nathaniel Coleman's No One Mourns the Wicked (9A) in Thunder Ridge, Colorado, Flohé says: "I know what other 9As feel like, and therefore I would suggest 8C+."
View post →Safety Notice: Edelrid OHMEGA Screw Connection Inspection
DAV Safety Research has provided further information regarding a recall from Edelrid to inspect a screw connection on the OHM II, OHMEGA and FUSE belay devices.
Read article →Hard Routes, Honest Grades
From Saxony sandstone to Yosemite linkups and Colorado boulders, this section is packed with serious climbing. The standout stories are not just about sending — they are about style, confirmation, downgrades, and what hard climbing actually feels like.
Mejdi Schalck's Win of the Day in Bern
Schalck was tired and almost convinced he wouldn't send this boulder, but kept a positive attitude and made it happen. These moments, when you don't feel great and still do the right things, make the difference.
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Alex Megos Sends Steinbock 8c — Two Fingers Returning
Training in the Frankenjura. Megos still struggles with pockets, but can slowly pull on two fingers again. Mono pulls coming next once that feels good.
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Adam Ondra Sends Vertreibung der Letzten Idealisten — Saxon Sandstone
A stunning Saxony route by Robert Leistner (2005, RP 2019). Ondra's 2026 RP of this French 8c showcases the magic of Elbsandstein climbing — with full video and trip article on Mammut's channels.
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Stefano Ghisolfi on Dreamtime
Stefano Ghisolfi shares more footage from his ascent of the legendary Dreamtime boulder.
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Olive Climbing Crushes Cruise Missile on the Kilter Board
Olive Climbing being an absolute beast on Cruise Missile at 40 degrees on the Kilter Board Original 12x12.
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Manon Hily Clips the Chains on Trip Tik Tonik (5.14d)
The French rock climber, competition athlete and nurse adds another 5.14d after sending her first 5.14d and 5.15a last year.
Read article →Lead Drama and Crack Energy
The competition scene keeps building: Annie Sanders beats Janja Garnbret in a tight Lead World Cup finish, Team USA shows strength, and Para Climbing moves into focus. Also: Crackfest reminds everyone that competition can still be weird, physical, and fun.
Alex Megos at the Wide Boyz Crackfest
A day full of jamming, stemming, crawling, chickenwinging, swinging, and sliding at the Wide Boyz Crackfest. Crack is back.
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Maximillian Milne Reflects on P22 in China
"Do you still love the game? Yes of course. That's the most important part — you'll figure it out." Three weeks to bounce back after a P22 finish in China.
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Team USA Strong in Wujiang — Sanders Gold, Garnbret Silver
Annie Sanders took gold in Women's Lead with seconds to spare, followed by Janja Garnbret silver and Chaehyun Seo bronze. In Men's Speed, Sam Watson edged Michael Hom for bronze.
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World Climbing Para Series Salt Lake City — This Weekend
Para athletes go head-to-head across 20 sport classes for the podium this Friday and Saturday at Momentum Climbing Utah.
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Annie Sanders Narrowly Beats Janja Garnbret for Gold in Wujiang
Sanders earns her second Lead World Cup gold in a nail-biting 2026 season opener — beating Janja Garnbret with seconds to spare.
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Neo Suzuki Wins Gold at First Lead World Cup of the Season
The Team Japan climber takes the first of three Lead World Cup golds he aims to win this year.
Read article →Keqiao Boulder World Cup Highlights Video
UKClimbing rolls up the highlights from the season-opening Keqiao Boulder World Cup into one video.
Read article →World Climbing Europe Youth Series Imst 2026
The Europe Youth Series continues with a stop at Imst, Austria — full World Climbing coverage.
Read article →New to climbing?
Start with our guides
Plain English explainers on gear, grades and skills, so every edition makes sense from the first read.
All guides →Safety Before Shine
This week's gear section leans practical: first-aid readiness, helmet updates, and a safety notice around the Edelrid OHMEGA. Not flashy, but relevant. Gear only matters when it works under pressure.
DAV — Better to Have Than to Need: First Aid Kits on Tour
The DAV asks: have you ever been in a mountain situation where your emergency kit came into play? What's essential in your first-aid setup for every tour?
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Petzl Introduces the New METEOR Helmet
Lightweight In-Mold construction, enhanced protection, just 235g in size S/M, with excellent ventilation for long days on the wall.
View post →Breakthroughs and Ethics
Will Bosi's progress on Silence dominates the bigger-picture stories this week. Alongside that, Adam Ondra's Saxony reflections bring the focus back to ethics, local rules, and why some climbing areas demand more than strength.
Adam Ondra on Saxon Ethics: Big Runouts, Threads, No Chalk
Ondra always liked Saxony's ethics — ground-up first ascents, extra protection with threads and knots — but the no-chalk rule kept him away. Then the lines called. New film Heartbeats now out with a 17-page Labák/Saxony PDF for trips.
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Daniel Woods: "See Ya in the Fall"
And that's my sign — see ya in the fall. Daniel Woods signs off the spring bouldering season.
View post →UKC Gear Competition — Win an Arc'teryx Lithos SL Harness
UKClimbing is running a giveaway for the new Arc'teryx Lithos SL Harness.
Read article →Don't miss the next edition
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