Edition #37

Hard Routes, Fast Progress & a Very Productive Week

September Ends With Plenty to Talk About

Alexander Megos leaves Australia with a new 9b and a tick list that would make a good season on its own, while La Stazione produces both a 9a flash and four 9as on four consecutive days. The Asian Games bring the focus back to competition climbing in Nagoya, and beyond the numbers there are stories stretching from Cerro Torre to the Totem Pole and twenty years of Es Pontas.

When the Project Starts to Look Possible

King Kang gets a 9b+ proposal after one of Flatanger's remaining dyno projects finally goes down, while Will Bosi links the crux of Silence all the way to the anchor and is left with a 7B boulder between himself and that sequence.

Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher both redpoint WoGü 8c on their first redpoint attempts after weeks of work, and Jakob Schubert looks back at how Mount Doom 9A became part of his recovery from the worst injury of his career.

Meanwhile, five different 9c routes now exist from five different climbers, and not one has been repeated.

From the notebook

From a Coach: "Oh, That's It?"

When new climbers get their first training plan from coach @pinkpointclimbing, the first reaction is often the same: "oh that's it?" They were expecting more, something that looks like suffering.

What they get is calm work, and it usually takes a couple of weeks before the changes show and it clicks. Our favourite example of that kind of work is repeating a climb you have already sent and doing it quieter the second time. It is one of the most useful things a new climber can do, and the least likely to feel like training.

So if your plan feels too easy, that may be the point. Where to start: How to Train for Climbing as a Beginner.

Australia Was Only Part of the Week

Alexander Megos finishes his trip Down Under with the first ascent of Slice of Heaven 9b, Rapture of the Deep 9a+ and two more first ascents up to 8c+.

Back in Europe, Ana Belén Argudo makes the first female ascent of La Gioconda 9a, Filip Schenk flashes Vivi si Muore 9a, and Giovanni Placci somehow turns four different 9as on four consecutive days into a single trip to La Stazione and Albenga.

Nagoya Takes Over the Competition Calendar

The Asian Games are underway in Aichi-Nagoya, with Sorato Anraku chasing another title on home soil after qualifying behind Lee Dohyun and Deng Lijuan already lowering the women's Speed Games record to 6.23 seconds.

Elsewhere, the Pro Climbing League's Boulderfest qualifiers move toward their final two stops, while Munich's Olympic ambitions could eventually bring competition climbing back to Germany on a much bigger stage.

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The Things You Should Know About the Gear You Already Own

EDELRID puts numbers on something that is easy to ignore, with textile equipment ageing even when it spends most of its life in storage and maximum useful life depending heavily on how it is used.

Petzl gets practical about cleaning draws from steep or traversing routes, while Climbing Magazine goes back to the questions worth asking before buying something as fundamental as a rope.

Twenty Years, One Sea Arch and a Winter Cerro Torre

Twenty years after Chris Sharma climbed Es Pontas, the line still looks as improbable as it did in King Lines, while Colin Haley's first winter solo of Cerro Torre gives REEL ROCK 20 a very different kind of climbing story.

Paul Pritchard's return to Tasmania's Totem Pole, eighteen years after the accident that left him paralysed on one side, offers another reminder that the meaning of an ascent can have very little to do with its grade.

Colin Haley climbing through a tunnel of rime ice on Cerro Torre
@reelrock

Colin Haley Alone on Cerro Torre in Winter

A short clip from the first winter solo of Cerro Torre, through a natural tunnel in the rime ice. The full film is part of Reel Rock 20, whose world tour starts on October 22.

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The Es Pontas sea arch rising out of the sea off Mallorca
@reelrock

Twenty Years Since Chris Sharma Climbed Es Pontas

The sea arch in Mallorca put deep water soloing on the map and became the heart of the film King Lines. The send footage is on the Reel Rock YouTube channel.

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The narrow Totem Pole sea stack off the coast of Tasmania
@ukclimbing

Paul Pritchard's Long Way Back to the Totem Pole

In 1998 a falling rock on the Totem Pole in Tasmania left him with a brain injury and one side of his body paralysed. Eighteen years later he went back and reached the top on a fixed rope, using one arm and one leg.

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Herb and Jan Conn in an old photograph at the crag
@climbingmagazine

A New Film About Herb and Jan Conn

The couple made more than 200 first ascents across the United States while living as simply as climbers can. Climbing previewed the documentary and asked the directors what their story means today.

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Red sandstone cracks of Indian Creek in the Utah desert
@blackdiamond

Black Diamond Takes a Million Signatures for Indian Creek to Washington

Employees wrote about why the desert crag matters to them, and the petition to protect public lands goes to Washington with a million names behind it.

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Close up of a climber's harness with a belay device and rope
UIAA

UIAA Calls for Fact Based Accident Reporting

A joint position paper from the UIAA, mountain rescue body ICAR and mountain guides association IFMGA on why accident prevention in climbing and mountaineering needs solid reporting.

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An empty competition speed wall with red holds
Lacrux

Former USA Climbing Speed Coach Sentenced

Matthew Maddison, who coached the US speed team, has been sentenced in Utah to up to 15 years in prison for possessing and distributing child sexual abuse material. USA Climbing had suspended him after his arrest in the spring.

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