Hard Routes, Fast Progress & a Very Productive Week
September Ends With Plenty to Talk About
Alexander Megos leaves Australia with a new 9b and a tick list that would make a good season on its own, while La Stazione produces both a 9a flash and four 9as on four consecutive days. The Asian Games bring the focus back to competition climbing in Nagoya, and beyond the numbers there are stories stretching from Cerro Torre to the Totem Pole and twenty years of Es Pontas.
When the Project Starts to Look Possible
King Kang gets a 9b+ proposal after one of Flatanger's remaining dyno projects finally goes down, while Will Bosi links the crux of Silence all the way to the anchor and is left with a 7B boulder between himself and that sequence.
Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher both redpoint WoGü 8c on their first redpoint attempts after weeks of work, and Jakob Schubert looks back at how Mount Doom 9A became part of his recovery from the worst injury of his career.
Meanwhile, five different 9c routes now exist from five different climbers, and not one has been repeated.

Jules Marchaland Sticks the Dyno on King Kang
A dyno line that was one of the last left in the Flatanger cave, and a project since last year. Jules Marchaland has now done it and proposes 9b+, which puts it among the hardest routes in Norway.
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Will Bosi Links Silence From the Crux to the Anchor
The conditions finally came, and Bosi repeated the crux and kept it together all the way to the top. What stands between him and the second ascent of Silence now is one 7B boulder before the crux.
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Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher Finish the Summer on WoGü
After the second and third ascents of Déjà, the pair stayed in the Rätikon and climbed WoGü (8c, 270 m) as well, again leading every pitch in turns. Their words: the perfect way to end the season.
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Jakob Schubert on Mount Doom as His Way Back
After the worst injury of his career, Mount Doom (V17) became the test of his recovery. A key hold broke mid project and forced a harder beta, and he still topped out on Austria's hardest boulder. The full film is on YouTube.
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Five Routes at 9c and Not One Repeated
DNA, Duality of Man, Silence, BIG and Café Colombia, each by a different climber and none of them repeated yet. UKClimbing asks which one deserves to be called the hardest route in the world, and with Bosi close on Silence the list may soon change.
View post →From the notebook
From a Coach: "Oh, That's It?"
When new climbers get their first training plan from coach @pinkpointclimbing, the first reaction is often the same: "oh that's it?" They were expecting more, something that looks like suffering.
What they get is calm work, and it usually takes a couple of weeks before the changes show and it clicks. Our favourite example of that kind of work is repeating a climb you have already sent and doing it quieter the second time. It is one of the most useful things a new climber can do, and the least likely to feel like training.
So if your plan feels too easy, that may be the point. Where to start: How to Train for Climbing as a Beginner.
Australia Was Only Part of the Week
Alexander Megos finishes his trip Down Under with the first ascent of Slice of Heaven 9b, Rapture of the Deep 9a+ and two more first ascents up to 8c+.
Back in Europe, Ana Belén Argudo makes the first female ascent of La Gioconda 9a, Filip Schenk flashes Vivi si Muore 9a, and Giovanni Placci somehow turns four different 9as on four consecutive days into a single trip to La Stazione and Albenga.

Adam Ondra on Why the Marmolada Feels Like the Centre of the Universe
A new long article on his website follows his climbs of The Fish and Egoland on the south face, with extra background and photos to go with the video. For climbers from Czechia and Slovakia, he writes, the wall means even more.
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Alexander Megos Leaves Australia With a New 9b
Slice of Heaven (37, 9b) is the headline of the trip, a first ascent and the first 37 in Australia. Around it sit two more first ascents and a list of repeats up to 9a+ that would make a good season on its own.
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Ana Belén Argudo Frees La Gioconda in Rodellar
The first free ascent of La Gioconda (9a), the Mona Lisa, in the limestone caves of Rodellar. The film of the climb is now out on Mellow.
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Giovanni Placci Climbs Four 9a Routes on Four Days in a Row
Three of them at La Stazione in Piedmont and one in Albenga, all in mid September. He came close to flashing the last one and only fell on the final move.
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Filip Schenk Flashes Vivi si Muore at La Stazione
A 9a flash at the same crag where Placci had his four days, and only the second 9a flash by an Italian climber.
Read article →Nagoya Takes Over the Competition Calendar
The Asian Games are underway in Aichi-Nagoya, with Sorato Anraku chasing another title on home soil after qualifying behind Lee Dohyun and Deng Lijuan already lowering the women's Speed Games record to 6.23 seconds.
Elsewhere, the Pro Climbing League's Boulderfest qualifiers move toward their final two stops, while Munich's Olympic ambitions could eventually bring competition climbing back to Germany on a much bigger stage.

Sorato Anraku Chases Asian Games Gold at Home
He won the Boulder and Lead title in Hangzhou in 2023. In Nagoya he went through the boulder semi final in second place behind Lee Dohyun.
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Deng Lijuan Sets an Asian Games Record in Speed
6.23 seconds in the women's qualification round, on lane C, and a new Asian Games record before the finals have even started.
View post →Aichi-Nagoya Is Ready for Climbing at the Asian Games
World Climbing's preview of the climbing events at the Asian Games in Japan, where the first rounds are already under way.
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Munich Is Germany's Candidate for the Olympic Games
The German Olympic Sports Confederation has nominated Munich for a bid, and the German Alpine Club backs it. A home Games would be a real boost for athletes and gyms, says DAV president Roland Stierle, as long as existing venues are used first.
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Boulderfest Heads Into Its Last Qualifiers
Two more weekends of comps, starting in Washington DC on October 2, before the first climbers win wildcards for the full Pro Climbing League season. The Grand Finale is in St. Paul on October 23 and 24.
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Start with our guides
Plain English explainers on gear, grades and skills, so every edition makes sense from the first read.
All guides →The Things You Should Know About the Gear You Already Own
EDELRID puts numbers on something that is easy to ignore, with textile equipment ageing even when it spends most of its life in storage and maximum useful life depending heavily on how it is used.
Petzl gets practical about cleaning draws from steep or traversing routes, while Climbing Magazine goes back to the questions worth asking before buying something as fundamental as a rope.

Your Rope and Harness Age Even When You Do Not Use Them
Edelrid explains how long its textile gear lasts: up to 14 years stored and unused, up to 10 years in use with good storage and no visible wear, and much less with frequent use. Worth checking the date on your own gear.
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How to Clean a Steep Route Without Swinging Away
On an overhanging or traversing route, lowering off without staying clipped to the rope can leave you hanging in space, out of reach of your draws. Petzl shows the technique that keeps you close to the wall.
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Ten Questions to Ask Before You Buy a Rope
A short video from Evan and a longer piece on Climbing on what to think through before buying a rope, from diameter to what you will actually use it for.
View post →Twenty Years, One Sea Arch and a Winter Cerro Torre
Twenty years after Chris Sharma climbed Es Pontas, the line still looks as improbable as it did in King Lines, while Colin Haley's first winter solo of Cerro Torre gives REEL ROCK 20 a very different kind of climbing story.
Paul Pritchard's return to Tasmania's Totem Pole, eighteen years after the accident that left him paralysed on one side, offers another reminder that the meaning of an ascent can have very little to do with its grade.

Colin Haley Alone on Cerro Torre in Winter
A short clip from the first winter solo of Cerro Torre, through a natural tunnel in the rime ice. The full film is part of Reel Rock 20, whose world tour starts on October 22.
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Twenty Years Since Chris Sharma Climbed Es Pontas
The sea arch in Mallorca put deep water soloing on the map and became the heart of the film King Lines. The send footage is on the Reel Rock YouTube channel.
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Paul Pritchard's Long Way Back to the Totem Pole
In 1998 a falling rock on the Totem Pole in Tasmania left him with a brain injury and one side of his body paralysed. Eighteen years later he went back and reached the top on a fixed rope, using one arm and one leg.
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A New Film About Herb and Jan Conn
The couple made more than 200 first ascents across the United States while living as simply as climbers can. Climbing previewed the documentary and asked the directors what their story means today.
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Black Diamond Takes a Million Signatures for Indian Creek to Washington
Employees wrote about why the desert crag matters to them, and the petition to protect public lands goes to Washington with a million names behind it.
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UIAA Calls for Fact Based Accident Reporting
A joint position paper from the UIAA, mountain rescue body ICAR and mountain guides association IFMGA on why accident prevention in climbing and mountaineering needs solid reporting.
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Former USA Climbing Speed Coach Sentenced
Matthew Maddison, who coached the US speed team, has been sentenced in Utah to up to 15 years in prison for possessing and distributing child sexual abuse material. USA Climbing had suspended him after his arrest in the spring.
Read article →Don't miss the next edition
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